Lazy Friday Afternoon Post

Seriously, not much to report as yet. Well, I shouldn't say that...I've already made several new friends, mostly staffers at school, but a few in and around my neighborhood. Wandered through the souq yesterday with Z, R and F. Z introduced me to the best olive and cheese seller in town, who told me he wouldn't sell me the olives he had that day because he had better ones coming on Saturday.

My friend Z.'s mother cooked up a storm on Wednesday afternoon for me and my co-teacher for next year, N. It was a really lovely afternoon with a great bunch of ladies and Z.'s one-year-old nephew who is the most expressive baby I've ever seen. He and I engaged in a spirited discussion, and occasional disagreement, through a series of gestures, gurgles, clicks and intense stares. He was pretty convinced as to his side of things and an effective debater, until I blew raspberries on his forehead and he lost his concentration amid a series of mad giggles.

Everybody's gone for the weekend and I am home alone, which is actually nice this week. The city shuts down on Fridays and it is intensely and enjoyably quiet. I'll go up on the roof in a bit to enjoy the sunset. Speaking of the roof, provided we stay in this house, I'll be putting down roots, so to speak. There's a perfect spot for a garden up there, just one of my many plans for the coming months.

I'm very excited about working with N., also from the U.S. She and I are on the same wavelength about activities, projects and community involvement. I'm really looking forward to the year. For now, we have three more weeks of summer camp. My class was dissolved because too few students remained (some left for vacation) and the students were sent to the other classes. I'll be team teaching the rest of the time with N.

Other than that, I'm just trying to get sorted and settled.
Salaam.

A New Start in Neopolis

Arrived today with absolutely no problems.Crossed the line, past the big read sign stating that it's illegal for citizens of Israel to enter the city and two Israeli soldiers sitting in the shade, looking a bit puzzled about the woman with all the baggage being handed off from Samaritan to taxi driver. I am just trying to process at the moment: the beauty of the landscape, the spartan settlements clinging to the hilltops, my to-do list for tomorrow, the fact that I will start teaching at 9 tomorrow, the overwhelming sounds of the muezzins echoing off the valley walls tonight, speaking Arabic again, more barbed wire than I've seen in my life, the smell of Jasmin, the delicious dinner my new roommates made for me, my new roommates...Time for a quick shower - water is precious and undependable here for many reasons - and a good night's sleep. Amusingly, at least to me, while most people in Turkey thought I looked Turkish several people here have already told me they assumed I am Palestinian by the looks of me. At least one asked if I was from here or elsewhere in the area

Leyla Sayeeda.
Salaam.

God bless you, Bill Ford

I happened across this obituary today and am truly saddened by the news of Mr. Ford's passing. I grew up in Miami during the bloody Central American wars. I may have been young, but I absolutely remember the murder of Mr. Ford's sister, Ita, a Maryknoll sister, and her fellow Maryknoll sister Maura Clarke, Ursuline Sister Dorothy Kazel and Catholic lay worker Jean Donovan. The terrors of the death squads - some aided and financed by the U.S. - were, in many ways, local news in Miami. Growing up in a family for who watching 60 Minutes was our Sunday tradition, I was well aware early on that bad things happen. However, for a child, or for anyone I suspect, the torture, rape and murder of nuns is something altogether horribly different. I am still convinced that the murders of these women and the 1989 murders of six Jesuit priests, their housekeeper and her daughter at Central American University helped change my world view and played a role in making me the person I am today. I don't talk about either case much, but every now and then I think about them. Mr. Ford's determination in bringing some of those involved to justice for his sisters murder and his success should be an example to us all about not throwing up our hands in defeat in the face of overwhelming odds, that one person can make a difference. God bless, Bill.
Salaam.

Go Dennis!

U.S. Rep. and former Democratic candidate for president Dennis Kucinich finally took the first step many of us have been dreaming of for a long time today. Turkey has AGAIN banned YouTube meaning I can't see it for myself (shakes fist angrily). Sadly, nothing will come of it, especially with Speaker Pelosi calling impeachment "off the table". But, a girl (and many folks in the US and abroad) can dream...

Salaam.

The view from Greece

An interesting sign I noticed before leaving the island of Samos, Greece. The photos were from Afghanistan, Iraq and some I couldn't identify. If anybody out there knows Greek, I would love to know what it says.
This photo is the one that caught my eye:
Salaam.

Thanks for the buzzkill, B.

While I was in Ormos, the closest I got to news from the outside world was when Inzela, who ran one of the tavernas and had lived in the U.S. for over 20 years, mentioned that Hillary Clinton was on television as we chatted outside while I was on my way to the beach one morning.

"Did she drop out?" I asked.
"I don't know and I don't really care," she said laughing.

It was only when I'd returned to Istanbul, relaxed and restored, that I discovered she was, indeed, ending her campaign. I felt a twinge of sadness, part of me giddy at the once very real possibility of an accomplished and deserving woman president in my lifetime. However, I like Obama. I heard him speak in Atlanta early last year, when he was in his ascendancy, and it was a truly moving experience, those of us in the audience looking around at each other, giddy with hope, ready to get to work doing something to bring about the change he spoke of and wanting to hold onto the feeling, together, when he finished. I want to say I didn't expect much from him on Israel. It seems a forgone conclusion in American politics that candidates will forever work from the same script. Sadly, I did expect more from him and his comments at the AIPAC meeting stung. This is a man who wisely said we must remember that true diplomacy should be about talking to those you disagree with. And, to those of you who believe talking to your enemies equates with surrender to your enemies, there is a big difference between negotiation and capitulation. I'll still vote for him and still believe he can do great things, at least I still have hope, but I am truly disappointed. People over here are still very interested in him and generally very supportive, likely because he's not Shrub or another Republican - yes, some people now associate the whole party with him. I'll be interested to hear what people have to say now...

Salaam.

Watch this!

I hadn't seen this video before, only a screen cap of the "Broccoli is my jihad (struggle)" kid, which made me laugh out loud and sent me over to Google to find out what it was from. The whole thing, song included, is really lovely (and some of the messages hysterical) and well worth a few minutes of your time.

Salaam.

PS: Link TV is a great way to get news from the Middle East and the rest of the world. Wake up and educate yourself! I download the Middle East news briefing daily on iTunes - easy and free.

This just in...

Kalispera, ya'll. That's Greek for "Good Afternoon". I am just back this morning from an extended visa run to the Greek island of Samos, where I spent a few blissful days of near solitude in a little fishing village and mostly avoided the sun-blistered and obnoxious package tour hordes. Hung out with the locals, went barefoot everywhere, learned a little Greek and avoided invitations to coffee or drinks and "you come out on my boat" from several septuagenarian fisherman.

My soul is rejuvenated after quality time with the sea and the only man who counted this week - Homer. Read the Odyssey on my own beach, which I had to boulder and wade through the rocks to get to and was absolutely worth it. Looking around at the mountains, the sea and the islands on the horizon, the wild wind that blew in for my first two days on the island, I can really understand how this part of the world gave rise to all those Gorgons, Harpies, Sirens and shape-shifting gods and the like. Actually spent one day encamped on a tiny swath of beach between two halves of a giant, sparkling geode. The only thing to distract me from Homer was the sea, though the Aegean was a bit colder than I expected. Got to spend my last night sleeping under the stars on the deck of a fishing boat, courtesy of a German-Greek couple. One week without phone, Internet, television or news is something powerfully healing that I will endeavor to do more often from now on. It was excruciating to leave a village of 200 to come back to a city of 20 million. I believe I can say with certainty I am not a city girl.

I also thought of ways to bring the trip to my kids in Nablus. I leave Istanbul July 1, the day after I will, I hope, successfully complete the CELTA Young Learners course. Made recordings of the sounds of the surf at different beaches - rocky, sandy, pebbly - and I have some ideas to incorporate the sounds into some writing exercises later on. Collected some of the gorgeous stones off the beaches to take them, but had to stop myself from bringing a whole bag; the beaches were like treasure troves to a Wabi Sabi-loving rock hound like myself. And, of course, I took photos, which I will post as soon as I can. I just want to bring these kids everything I can to help them dream.

Thank you to all my friends in Ormos. I hope the fish come back to the nets and your town can stay as it is - a real place with real, lovely people.

Salaam.

More mud slung at Almontaser

I was sad to see her opponents have stooped to a new low. It's really disheartening to see people so bound and determined to ruin a person. And what could possibly be the end result they are seeking? They have already forced her from her job and helped derail the school. What's the goal here, really?

Salaam.

Ibn Arabi in Istanbul

I am just curious if anyone else out there plans to attend the Ibn Arabi conference in Istanbul next weekend (May 23-25). It is organized by the Istanbul branch of the Turkish Women's Cultural Association (TURKKAD). There's no fee to attend and the speakers will include scholars from around the world. You can download the program here. See you there.

Salaam.

Spring has sprung

Despite the fact that we're closing in on June, it still feels like early spring here. The weather has been cool and lovely and things seem to still be hatching. Speaking of which, I have my very own Discovery Channel special unfolding across the sokak. A pair of seagull chicks are out of the nest on the roof across from my window. They and their folks are providing me with endless entertainment. I suspect I am one of a small few for who watching a bird regurgitate a fish is a beautiful thing.

Salaam.

Smoking gun or just more smoke?

I'm not sure what to make of this story in the New York Times claiming that Hezbollah is training Iraqi militants in Iran, but it is unsettling given recent developments. I stand by my belief that Cheney, Bush & Co. still have something up their sleeve. And, no, you cannot use logic to predict the actions of people for who logic is meaningless.

A dear friend of mine just left to return home to Tehran after a visit. She said the increased sanctions, including enhanced financial sanctions are hurting Iranians. One family member had a large sum of money seized in a wire transfer to the U.S. The reason for the transfer? To pay down the mortgage on their home in California, which they may now lose. I know I feel safer.

Salaam.

Decisions

I've now lived in Istanbul for almost eight months, long enough to feel like a local in many ways, especially as a foreigner. This is a remarkable city in many ways. It is constantly moving; there is always something happening, even in the earliest hours of the morning. It is one of the most beautifully situated cities in the world, rolling over the hills to the shores of the Bosphorus and Marmara. The city's long history stares you in the face; everywhere you look you turn the page on another chapter, another footnote. It is artistic, energetic, challenging, noisy, surprising...I love it here, however, some things are missing and some things just don't feel right. Therefore, I've decided to return to the Middle East later this year. I just feel that, for several reasons, that's where I'm meant to be. The Jordan trip started all this. In talking with people, speaking Arabic again, I realized I miss the language, the culture, the people. There are other things, about me, Turkey, the Middle East. But for now, just know a choice has been made.

So, where to now? At the moment I am gearing up to lead photo tours of the city for a gallery and school on Istiklal. Hopefully we'll get the word out and people will sign up. I'll spend the summer working on that and laying plans. Ramadan falls in September this year, which could put a kink in travel plans, or maybe not. I would like to travel a bit after summer: to take the train from Istanbul to Tehran to visit friends there, to see the contenders for the title of "home". Friends have suggested the obvious: Cairo, Ramallah and Beirut. I'd also like to revisit Amman. It'll have to be someplace where I might have the possibility of working in one of my fields: journalism, photography, teaching and NGOs and nonprofits. So, if anyone out there wants to help a sister out, let me know. I am looking for a place I can be of service, deepen my spirituality, support myself, enjoy the things I do and grow.

Salaam.

Mayday!

Update (12:55pm): eventually a group made it to my sokak and up onto Cumhuriyet. According to the a friend they were only allowed to get to Pangalti this morning. The crowd here just drifted towards Taksim and away a few times before being chased by riot police firing tear gas. Not bad here, but I did have to close the windows. It's provided quite a show for me and the neighbors...Spoke to soon....they just gassed our street.

It's May 1, or May Day, International Labor Day and in Istanbul the police have been out crushing plans by labor unions to march on the city's central Taksim Square. Şişli is very near where I live and is where I used to work. It's never comfortable to watch television coverage of police rounding people up, firing tear gas canisters and using water cannons on crowds and especially so when you know exactly where they're doing it - in front of shops you frequent, on streets you walk. Protests in Taksim have been banned since 1977, when unidentified gunmen fired into a crowd of May Day protesters in Taksim, leading to the deaths of some 40 people. The gunmen were never identified, but accusations included collusion with the police and agents of the "deep state". Every year brings some level of unrest and violence. Last year the were small barricades erected and burned in Taksim by so-called anarchists and plenty of people beaten by police. A Turkish friend who planned to march said people were meeting at three locations to march on the square. The unionists said they would come bearing carnations to present to the police. All this week the police and city and national government warned of threats received from unnamed "provocateurs," including Molotov cocktails and other weapons. The claimed they were unable to mobilize to protect protesters in a space as open as Taksim, however they seem to be able to mobilize to shut down and cordon off the square today and crush the beginnings of the march in Şişli. I'm sure some Turkish friends will claim I don't understand because I'm not Turkish, a familiar way to shut down discussion on many topics. A friend working on Istiklal reported that police are mobilizing at Odakule, towards the Tunel end of the street. So, I am listening to a helicopter buzz the nearby neighborhood, chatting online with a friend who lives nearby who reported rioting on her tiny sokak, as the Şişli protesters scattered and tried to regroup, and watching images from this morning in Şişli on television: union officials grabbed from head offices and arrested by throngs of police dressed in stormtrooper-like protective gear, people crouching in the streets to stay in position under water cannon blasts, police shaking batons over their heads and firing many rounds of gas canisters after fleeing protesters. Oddly, my neighborhood, along Cumhuriyet, is rather quiet and it's a normal, lovely spring day - cars on the street, people going about their business, the sounds of daily routine can be heard. You would never know what's going on less than half a kilometer away. Seems like the plan was to end it before it even began. The police helicopter is now buzzing over Dolapdere and just made a low pass overhead. We'll see if anybody makes it to Taksim.

Salaam.

The "Case" against Debbie Almontaser

The campaigns of character assassination waged against Ms. Almontaser and against the school that was her dream, the Khalil Gibran International School, are beyond disturbing and show just how low some in the U.S. have stooped in dishonoring the principles the country was founded on. I've already written about the sad story of the Khalil Gibran school, but reading this story left me outraged. Read this very carefully. We should all me standing up and speaking out about this case.

Salaam.